Jabiru UK
RANS Aircraft UK
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PC625 Odyssey Battery 12V 18AH 170 x 99 x 175 (YB16-CLB) Price: £83.99
(Excluding VAT at 20%)


Service Kit For Bing Type 94 - J2200 Price: £77.42
(Excluding VAT at 20%)


Starter Clutch Price: £182.81
(Excluding VAT at 20%)



Brake Pad Kit Price: £26.03
(Excluding VAT at 20%)


GT2 PROP 157 X 98 (STD JABIRU.RANS S6) Price: £585.00
(Excluding VAT at 20%)

Air Filter for J2200 Savannah (62mm)
Air Filter for J2200 Savannah (62mm) Price: £50.33
(Excluding VAT at 20%)


J2200 Hollow Pushrod Upgrade Kit
J2200 Hollow Pushrod Upgrade Kit Price: £540.49
(Excluding VAT at 20%)


57mm Panel Mounted Compass, North Hem, < 2.5° error
57mm Panel Mounted Compass, North Hem, < 2.5° error Price: £47.95
(Excluding VAT at 20%)


Ice-A-Way
Ice-A-Way Price: £119.15
(Excluding VAT at 20%)


66" 2 Blade R/H Tractor Propeller
66" 2 Blade R/H Tractor Propeller Price: £640.49
(Excluding VAT at 20%)

A

Air Intakes
Air intake from outside the cowl should have smooth entry and the exit from the air box should be smooth inside. Scat hose is now 2 ¼˝ (55 mm) in diameter. Build up with suitable material on exit of air box to Carby Air vent tube from Carby goes to filtered side of air box. It is extremely important that there are no tight bends in scat hoses and that scat hose onto Carby has no build up, thus blocking the 2 sense holes at the back of the Carby . We use a small glass attachment here to stop this. A small sleeve of fibre glass would do the same thing in this area under the scat hose


Air Induction System
This relates to those who are fitting an engine to a non-Jabiru aircraft and who don't use the Jabiru airbox. By trial and error and at times intelligent reasoning we have refined the air filter box that usually is quite straight forward to install and provides trouble free running. During these investigations, we found out quite a few facts that the Bing Carby had been trying to tell us from day 1.

All air ducting with scat hoses must be as straight as possible with the absence of 90° bends.
The Carby bowl vent must be vented to a static supply of air.
Air filter size must be adequate.
The incoming air must arrive from outside the cowl and if too much ram air results we provide a simple flapper valve to unload some pressure.
All glassed in fibreglass flanges should have no sharp corners but well rounded to enhance airflow.

The Carby heat arrangement is taken from a muffler muff and controlled from inside the box by a simple flapper valve. Here the hot air is split with most going through the filter and some direct to venturi. Application of Carby heat will slightly lower RPM (by about 50rpm on the 4 cylinder engine). There have been many installations when the air box has caused problems. Another area of concern is the scat hose bunched up on the inlet flange of the Carby. Note that the equivalent length of SCAT hose is enormous!


Air Filter
When installed in a non-Jabiru airframe sometimes incorrect sized air filters or incorrect installations of the Jabiru air box has caused problems. If a non-Jabiru air filter system is used, the size of the filter needs to be carefully considered. When conducting 50 hourly inspections a cursory inspection should be made of the filter. Evidence of grass, damp, contamination etc means replacement of the filter. If operating on grass or dirt strips air filter life is shortened considerably. Blowing out a filter will only remove some material; small particles of dust will still be impregnated in the filter element. In a dusty environment 50 - 100 hours from a filter would be the maximum. Operating from sealed runway will give longer filter life. Remember a partially clogged filter will influence fuel burn and performance. Even though a filter may look ‘clean’, it can become clogged with microscopic particles, which greatly increase the back pressure across the filter.

Be careful about using non Jabiru filters. The one Jabiru uses has a stainless steel mesh on the inside to stop the filter from being sucked in to the Carby in the event of the air filter becoming waterlogged or damaged.


Altimeter
Recently reported was a case where the instrument kept changing its displayed altitude when the pressure had remained static. Eventally the altimeter could not be zeroed by rotating sue sub-scale knob. The problem was most likely a leaking pressure capsule. The fix was to replace altimeter.

Anodising
A great idea for all aluminium parts, especially brake components. It looks good, and provides a degree of surface hardening. No dimensional change since anodising etches into the surface.

 

B

Brakes
The brakes on the Jabiru are lightweight purpose designed items but do require a little more attention than standard. They are not self-adjusting for wear and as such require periodic checking to ensure that they are in proper adjustment. I speak from experience in recently nearly ending up in a ditch (not in a Jabiru) because the brakes failed and I had no way to stop on an asphalt runway!

Brake Pads
Check your pads from time to time. If they are allowed to wear down to the rivets they will contact the disk and damage it. Pad replacement needs to be done using a proper brake pad riveting tool which can be used to cleanly remove old rivets and re attach pads to their respective backplates. Note that the long rivets are used for the aluminium backplate and the short ones to attach the pads to the steel backplate.

Bleeding Brakes!
When bleeding the brakes remove both brake calipers from the discs and use a small clamp to hold the slave piston in one one side. On the other side, hold the caliper up above the master cylinder with the piston and seal removed. Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid and slowly pump the brake. Be sure to keep the master cylinder topped up to prevent pumping air into the system. Pump the fluid up to the open cylinder until it is brimmed and no bubbles come out. Keeping the slave cylinder level insert the rubber brake seal in sideways and then rotate cup side in, trying to prevent air being trapped. Insert the steel piston and put a temporary clamp on it. Carry out the same procedure on the other side. It is helpful to tape some kitchen towel around each brake pipe to catch any spills.

 



C

Carby Inlet Rubbers
It is essential to check carefully your carburettor inlet rubbers (ie the rubber between the Carby and the engine) annually or every 100 hours for cracking or splitting. These have been known to crack or even split over long periods of usage and this can lead to at the least poor running and at worst the carb falling off! Sometimes the split is nearly invisible, so it may be prudent to remove the Carby and flex the rubber to show up any cracks.

Cylinder Heads
Don't forget to check cylinder head torques at 5, 10, 15 and 25 hours during engine break in and thereafter every 25 hours, all in accordance with the head torque procedure. Head Torque 24ft/lbs on all engines. Do not unload the head bolts prior to checking their torque, as this could break seal between the barrel and head.

Cobra Heads
The fitment of a Cobra head to your carburettors is recommended to present the carby with a smooth flow of air. The flexible corrugated hoses provide a turbulent flow of air into the carb and they also impede flow to a large extent. The Cobra head is effectively an elbow which provides a smooth transition into the carb from the airbox. A small length of hose is still required. note if you are retro-fitting the Cobra Head, you may need to redo the outlet from the airbox as the outlet and carby are not necessarily inline! Improvements should be gained in power and also more accurate fuel metering from the carb.


CHT Senders
We usually replace the standard plug ring of 14mm diameter with an electrical connection of 13mm diameter that fits under the spark plug better. Crimp must be firm onto the 2 wires or inaccurate CHT temps will be displayed.

Coils
The new Honda type coils have been discontinued on both the 2200 and the 3300. This occurred a while ago. However the new type coils (black cases with a white resin fill) were installed on all 3300 engines and on 2200 engines s/n 1207 - 1213 and then from 1292 onwards. Honda changed the coil circuitry, which needed a wider gap to fill. Gap set was 0.032” or 0.80mm. These coils were used on the 2200 engines s/n 1204 - 1206 and from 1214 - 1291.

Coil Cooling
Since we have changed from the Honda coil to one of different manufacture (black cases) it has become more evident in the need to provide some form of cooling. On the 6 cylinder we have always suggested this. Practice has been to install a ½” or 12mm aluminium pipe suitable bent and fixed to the rear top of the coils. Coils do run better and give longer service if they are not required to run in a very hot environment. This also depends on the climate you are flying in. While coil life is usually the life of the engine, some replacements have had to be made. When setting coil gaps it is important to check all the magnet pole plates on the flywheel for gap to all coils. If coil pole onto flywheel the heat generated usually destroys the coils’ function.


Cold Starting

See starting

E

Elevator Travel
It is imperative to check that your elevator provides sufficient travel. This should be checked and measured in accordance with SBA4 which is available on the Jabiru website (www.jabiru.net.au). For UL, SP and SK this is 18° up from the streamline position and 6° down, both ±1°

Exhaust Gaskets
Keep a close check for exhaust gasket leaks. The signs to look for brown marks on ramair ducts or grey cowlings.

Exhaust
At service time have a look at the exhaust springs. The Jab ones are a lot better than the 582 ones I used to use but occasionally one can need replacement.